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A walk on the dark side

May 2 2005

By Guy Newey

 

Behind the shine and lustre of the regenerated Jewellery Quarter lies a dark, sinister past.

The two cemeteries, with their resplendent catacombs, hold a morbid fascination --and more and more people are searching out the gothic past of the shiny new city.

Now the Jewellery Quarter has decided to actively promote itself as a haunt for "dark tourism" and has put together a walk for those drawn to the morbid.

The Dark Trail focuses on Key Hill and Warstone Lane cemeteries, and also includes the Newman Brothers coffin furniture factory.

"The Jewellery Quarter is attracting an increasing number of people who enjoy its rich historical fabric," said Andy Munro, of the Jewellery Quarter Regeneration Partnership.

"People love its quirkiness and perhaps the leaflet on the cemeteries reflects an area which is full of historic secrets often tucked away."

The history of the area mirrors the wider history of Birmingham.

Key Hill cemetery was opened in 1836 and is populated by some of Birmingham most famous sons, including Joseph Chamberlain and John Henderson, the man who built Crystal Palace.

A short walk down Vyse Street is Warstone Lane, with its gothic catacombs.

Rumours abound that the catacombs were used as temporary homes during World War II.

Smoking was banned during the late 19th century due to fears of escaping gas from the bodies. The legend goes: "To inhale this gas, undiluted with atmospheric air, is instant death. Such is the smell when the grave digger comes within 3ft of the last deposited coffin that they are obliged to be plied constantly with rum."

Newman Brothers, in Fleet Street, made fittings for Winston Churchill's and Princess Diana's coffins.

* The Dark Trail guides are available from the Museum of the Jewellery Quarter, the Jewellery Quarter Information Centre and from city centre tourist information points.

 

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