 Themed restaurants are not high on my list of must-visit places - there's something almost tedious at being told to 'step back in time'. It's like people who tell you they are funny and 'like a laugh'. I like to make up my own mind. So here we were at Jonathans' - one of Birmingham's 20th century institutions that for a generation of people-in-the-know was THE place to be. Time does move on but Jonathans' has retained its Victorian character with gritty determination and, in truth, does it remarkably well. There is a bit of roughness around the edges, the odd spot that could do with a lick of paint or an extra finishing touch but there's little time to look for faults. For one, the place is crammed with antiques, curios and paraphernalia collected by the original owners. For two, the place really is like stepping back in time. There are intimate dining places where two can talk about love or business behind closed curtains. The 45 en-suite bedrooms are each stuck in a delicious Victorian time warp and the Victorian sitting room and library is the perfect place to take high tea. Then there is the boardroom with its wood panelled walls or a 'secret' garden room where, on a lazy summer evening, jazz musicians help transport visitors into yet another world. The maze of corridors take hotel guests and regular visitors including members of The Business Club which offers tempting packages for anyone who has grown tired of striking deals in sterile surroundings. Jonathans' is a feast for the eyes and, to be honest, the food makes up for a lot. Some may come to while away a lazy evening or afternoon and who can blame them? For others, when time is of the essence, the neighbouring McDonalds can be a temptation. Do not be tempted. Go to Jonathans' and check out the business menu, that runs alongside the à la carte. Take time to savour the wonderful mint and cucumber cheesecake with strawberries and balsamic dressing from the 'first removes' - starters to you and me. Or maybe try the smoked chicken bound with beans, cashew nuts and wholegrain mustard dressing. I opted for beef tomato marinated in thyme and basil, topped with slices of buffalo mozzarella cheese - delicious and excellent with the herb bread, freshly made on the premises. The main removes were another great experience. The cold poached salmon salad did what it said on the menu but the herb crusted chicken on pan haggerty potatoes (very much like creamy Dauphinoise) was excellent. The pièce de la resistance were the vegetables - sweet fresh carrots and beetroot and orange segments in a creamy sauce. Delicious. No room for dessert but promises of Jonathans' infamous trifle will be a good enough excuse to get me back. Even the pot of tea was a surprise - served complete with woolly tea cosy. Well, we had stepped back in time. A loyal clientele will understand why if Victorian-style means wonderful service, delicious food and fascinating surroundings then it gets my vote. There really always should be time in everyone's life for a visit to a place like Jonathans'. Jonathans' Hotel & Restaurant, 16-24 Wolverhampton Road, Oldbury. 0121 429 37. www.jonathans-birmingham.com
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