 "Yes, yes, we'll easily be back by 9.30, we're only going for dinner," we assured the car park attendant at the NCP, when he told us he was cashing up and locking the gate at ten sharp. After all, our table at the Radisson was booked for 7pm, we'd only be a couple of hours. Ah, the joy of hindsight. It wasn't that service at Filini, the hotel's Sardinian-themed restaurant, was sluggish - it was impeccable and well-timed, with just enough space given in between courses. No, we ran the risk of having to get the bus home by simply relaxing too much and, heaven forbid, enjoying ourselves too much. Filini, based on the first floor upstairs from reception, has a nice airy feel, the long room, which has a cream and brown colour scheme, punctuated by potted olive trees to give it that Mediterranean look. For a Tuesday night, it was really busy - packed in fact. How many were hotel guests was unclear, but from the lively volume of chatter most were having a good time. The warm atmosphere, along with the friendly, quietly efficient staff, makes for a welcoming restaurant, especially if you're a non-resident. Some people may still have hang-ups about eating in a hotel restaurant. They shouldn't. Over a basket of bread (spinach flatbread, crostini and something that resembled a popadom) we eventually picked out some choices from the antipasti, risottos, pastas, pizzas and other secondi (main courses to you and me). For starters I chose the buffalo mozzarella (£6.50) with tomato (but without the anchovies), while Adele had the char-grilled asparagus with poached egg, shallot and pantalleria capers in sea salt (£5.95). Both looked a picture; the chunky spears were drizzled in an enticing sauce, the egg wonderfully runny - nothing being left the ultimate accolade. My mozzarella was a huge chunk on a bed of spicy rocket - though a couple more of the rich tomatoes would have been welcome. Top marks all the same. The main courses were just as good - the char-grilled tuna (£13.50) adjudged to be the nicest ever tasted, with a delicious dressing on the accompanying salad. My rump steak was cooked just right at medium - the outside crisp, the inside the right side of bloody. The tangy pizzaoila sauce and ubiquitous grilled tomatoes went really well, as did the salted roast potatoes (though I had ordered mash which would have gone even better). Pudding was a struggle, but tempted by my all-time favourite of bread and butter pudding (made with pannetone, of course) and the Tart of the Day (orange, with chocolate ice cream) we caved in - and were pleased we did. My pudding was crisp on top, melt in the mouth below, just as it should be; the tart surprisingly subtle in flavour and just as well-received. "Ah, you kept to your word," said our little friend back at the NCP when we appeared back just after 9.30 (it was a close call, mind). "Did you enjoy your meal?". As they say in Sardinia... yes thanks. * Filini, Radisson SAS hotel, 12 Holloway Circus, Birmingham. 0121 654 6333 www.radissonsas.com | 
