You could so easily walk past Deolali - but you'd be mad to miss it. Named after the Indian town of Deolali (which gave birth to the phrase 'going Doolally') there's only a small brass plaque at the arched entrance next door to the old Bulls Head in Moseley to tell you this is the place - but once inside there's no mistaking you've come to the right spot. It doesn't exactly shout 'Indian restaurant' - inside it's all exposed timbers and brickwork, chunky tables - not a patch of flock wallpaper in sight. With a bar at the front, the restaurant itself is set on several levels, with huge mirrored walls at two ends making it look even bigger than it is. Calling in on a Saturday night, we went for the later of the two slots left available - 9.30 as opposed to 6.30. Book well in advance is my advice. By this time Deolali was packed and buzzing - the background music playing second fiddle to the lively soundtrack of chatter, laughter and the clink of glasses and cutlery. I'd heard plenty of good things - and nothing negative - from a clutch of friends who'd been here in the few months it's been open - and the early signs were good. Both my friend Ade and I were pretty hungry, but often suffer from 'eyes bigger than belly' syndrome when it comes to ordering. At Deolali it's more a case of simply being spoilt for choice. Over a couple of popadoms and the obligatory dips (the creamy bright green mint sauce deserves special mention), we navigated the sizeable menu. Three pages of appetizers and starters alone, you'll find the usual blend of favourites of pakoras, patties, chatt and kebab alongside the kormas, jalfrazis and dopiazas.There is also the national favourite, chicken tikka masala ("no explanation needed" says the menu) and a good smattering of house specials such as tandoori trout, ghustabba (lean lamb meatballs in a sweet and spicy tomato sauce) and Deolali Monk Fish. We finally went for the Punjabi kofta (£3.95) and Tahwa kebab (£3.50) to start. My lamb meatballs were tangy with a spicy zing - the ever-present mint dip a welcome accompaniment. Just enough for a starter. Ade's kebab was described as coming 'served on a sizzling tahwa' which it didn't - the pieces of chicken already on the plate next to a lemon wedge and salad - but it didn't stop his enjoyment. Alongside our main dishes of king prawn bhuna (£9.95) and garlic chilli lamb (£8.95), we chose plain and vegetable pilau, bhindi (okra with ginger and onions) and aloo sagg, with a chilli nann to boot. Reassuringly hot plates were followed by this rainbow feast; unlike other Indian restaurants where every dish is merely a different shade of mud brown, at Deolali the colours jump off the plate - along with the flavours. The okra were just the right side of al dente, the naan both crisp on the edge and doughy in the middle, the rice light and fragrant.And that was before we tasted the main dishes. Ade's lamb, in a rich red sauce peppered with large pieces of chilli, was to hot stuff in both senses, the small beads of sweat on his forehead combined with complimentary nods. My bhuna lived up to its name - the prawns king-sized and plenty in number, not a token two or three as you sometimes get - the garam masala and fenugreek giving it the right balance of spice and flavour. I can't remember enjoying an Indian meal so much for a long time - and while the bill just edged £60 for two (albeit with a fine bottle of Chilean Merlot and a couple of Brahma beers in there too), owners Tariq and Lynne seem to have a real winner on their hands. Deolali Bar Restaurant, 23a St Marys Row, Moseley, Birmingham B13 8HW 0121 442 2222
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