 Tucked away behind Colmore Row in the centre of Brum's business district, it would be easy to assume that Metro primarily caters to the business lunch and post-work crowd. Guess again. While there was a plethora of pinstripes when we popped in for a late lunch, Metro also boasted a surprising profusion of parties - from ladies lunching to a large group of friends celebrating a birthday with free flowing Champagne. Walking through the bar area into the busy restaurant - which is surely a good sign at 2pm on a bleak Tuesday - it was easy to see why. The décor is contemporary, with a stylish curved bar and floor-to-ceiling mirrors swish enough to make you feel like you're in a Manhattan cocktail lounge, but comfort and quality remains key. The one-page menu is packed full of intriguing combinations to tempt the tastebuds - and that's before you even look at the specials board which is home to the day's fresh fish dishes. Having made our choices (albeit with several other possibilities which will have to be sampled on a subsequent visit) we grazed on warm bread served with dipping oil and a lightly roasted bulb of garlic - an unusual, caramelised tangy accompaniment which kept the hunger pangs at bay until the starters arrived. We'd both chosen salads, in a vague hope of offsetting the potential sleepiness of a heavy two-course lunch during a workday, but they were worthy of a main course all of their own. Suitably impressed by his smoked pheasant, pancetta, and apple salad with a watercress and mustard dressing (£5.95), my dining companion Alan described it as the best cooked pheasant he'd eaten in years, while my marinated feta, baby leaf spinach, olive and vine tomato salad (£5.50) didn't disappoint, although I'd have preferred slightly crumblier feta. Alan's stunning looking pan fried duck breast, mashed sweet potatoes, pineapple and ginger compote (£13.95) evoked envy pangs when it was put on the table. One of the more expensive mains on the menu, but worth every penny, with the unusual flavour of the compote adding a whole new dimension to the dish which lifted it from fantastic to truly sublime, complementing the moist duck perfectly. Meanwhile, my spit roasted half chicken in a garlic, lemon and thyme marinade (£12.95) at first looked slightly less interesting on the plate, but the succulent meat was wonderful, especially paired with the aioli and generous bowl of frites it was served with. Suffice to say, despite our best efforts we were unable to even contemplate a dessert (which is a shame because I had my eye on the baked Alaska) and went back to the office feeling comfortably replete. Yes Metro may be a business luncher's paradise, but ultimately the civilians get the last laugh - as they can while away the afternoon in one of Brum's best, long after the lunch hour has finished. * Metro Bar and Grill 73 Cornwall St, Birmingham, 0121 200 1911, www.metrobarandgrill.co.uk | 
