 "Well the council reckon we're on Bulls Lane but we're actually on Wishaw Lane," the voice at the other end of the line explained rather cryptically, as we sat in the car in the middle of nowhere, A to Z open on page 71, peering into the pitch black vainly trying to sight something that looked like a large pub. The problem is in that part of Sutton Coldfield half the houses resemble country pubs. We were on Bulls Lane, just the wrong part - and the brunette was growing hungrier and more agitated by the minute. As it turned out the Cock Inn was just round the corner - Bulls Lane is rather frustratingly in two halves, and we were in the wrong bit. Once inside we headed straight for our table - for fear of the brunette keeling over from hunger - and began eagerly scouring the menu. Part of the same stable of gastro pubs as the Barnt Green Inn and Lyttleton Arms, Hagley, The Cock Inn is one of those places where a lot of time and effort has been spent to make it look like not much time and effort has been spent. Exposed beams, cream walls, faux rusty chandeliers, it's rustic charm in the heart of footballers' wives country. Five of them seemed to be on the adjoining table. A plate of bread and dipping oil kept us happy while we chose the main events. Like its brothers and sisters, the menu is made up of Little Dishes (ie starters), Leaves (salads), Fired Pizzas (erm, pizzas), Pasta and Stove/Grill/Rotisserie. We both chose from the latter - I had the spit roast gammon (£9.95), the brunette the fillet steak (£17.95), preceded by the Italian antipasti platter (£6.95) which we shared. It turned out to be a good move; the rocket, parmesan shavings, anchovies, sun dried tomatoes, prosciutto and artichoke topped with two triangles of delicious (presumably homemade) pecan bread was just enough between us - and delicious too. Along with a bottle of water and a glass of wine each (brought to table by a waiter who seemed to have been frightened at birth and wasn't entirely sure what he had on the tray), we anticipated the main event. It didn't disappoint; the steak, accompanied by subtle horseradish mash, green beans and a subtle but tangy Bloody Mary sauce, was cooked spot on for medium rare - sealed on the outside with a slight crust, moist and slightly bloody inside. The dearest item on the menu perhaps, but it was a quality piece of meat. My gammon was thinly sliced and fanned out over Lyonnaise potatoes with a cider sauce; the brunette found it too salty but I loved it - especially alongside the greens + leeks + peas (£3.25) and Mediterranean roasted vegetables (£3) we ordered as sides. The latter deserve special mention - sweet as you like, the swede, carrot and parsnip would have converted even the fussiest of children to the delights of vegetables. Uncharacteristically, the brunette waved the white flag and couldn't finish her mash and skipped pudding, while I had a stab at the raspberry and meringue cheesecake which I'd spied on another table. It looked better than it tasted - too creamy, little flavour and none of that tart zing I had been expecting. Pity, as the rest of the meal had been excellent. Navigation problems and rather untidy ladies' toilets aside, a fine night out - and now we know where it is, we'll doubtless be back. The Cock Inn, Bulls Lane,Wishaw. 0121 313 3960
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