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Darcyshire

Feb 27 2007

Narin Bahar went to Derbyshire in search of Mr Darcy - and found a whole lot more

 

Matthew Macfadyen and Keira Knightley in Pride and Prejudice

It is a truth universally acknowledged - at least in my circle of friends - that when you're feeling low and looking for a girlie night in, there's no better pick-me-up than Pride and Prejudice.

Whether you're old school and favour Colin Firth in the lake, or prefer the contemporary loveliness of Matthew MacFadyen's younger and more unsure Darcy, the timeless classic is a perfect way of brightening up the gloomiest of days.

So when we were given the chance to head to the Derbyshire countryside immortalised in Jane Austen's novels for the ultimate girlie weekend of rest and relaxation, my companion Lisa and I were in my car and heading for the hills so fast that we were less Lizzie and Jane, more Thelma and Louise.

We started our journey by driving from the Midlands to the tiny market town of Bakewell.

While there's some debate over where, exactly, Jane Austen stayed to write Pride and Prejudice - the smart money is between Bakewell's Rutland Arms and the posher surroundings of nearby stately home Haddon Hall, the general view is Bakewell was at the very least the inspiration for Lambton, the Bennett sisters' social centre.

Nowadays you won't see the officers parading through the streets, but the charming town is packed with hidden courtyards full of tiny one-of-a-kind shops selling gifts, crafts and antiques, and stunning views which makes it still a perfect place to while away the hours.

The town also boasts three different bakeries selling its world-famous eponymous pudding, each claiming to have the original, secret recipe.

We headed to the Bakewell Pudding Parlour on Wye Street, where in lieu of lunch we both decided it would be rude not to try the delicacy - not the healthiest meal admittedly, but so delicious we were both tempted to buy additional puddings to take home from the Parlour's attached bakery.

Bakewell Tarts just won't ever taste the same again.

After feeding the ducks on the River Wye and just enjoying the beautiful scenery while letting lunch go down, it was time to head to Castleton to see another speciality of the region.

Blue John Stone is actually purple, but don't let that put you off this semi-precious gem, which is found nowhere else in the world.

You can visit the caverns where it is discovered and mined, and then restrain the urge to spend lots of money on hand crafted Blue John jewellery. There's also a stunning Norman castle with amazing views of the surrounding area - if you can face the walk up the hill.

Very different to the hustle and bustle of Bakewell, Castleton felt a little more touristy and a little less friendly, although that's more a testament to how lovely the former was rather than any condemnation of the latter.

A day of fresh air and walking meant we were exhausted by the time we arrived at Buxton and didn't take much notice of the town, instead focusing on the sumptuous spa facilities at The Palace Hotel and the delicacies in the dining room (even if a bowl of hand cut chips came to more than £3!). But as day two dawned we realised that the town was worthy of a look round itself - and with a spot of shopping in the afternoon and a trip to the Opera House in the evening for the ballet, it's a miracle we packed everything in.

Our first stately home of the day was Haddon Hall, a manor house dating back in parts to 11th Century. 

Not only was it used as Mr Rochester's house in the most recent adaptation of Jane Eyre and Keira Knightley's bedroom in the last P&P film, it played host to Scarlett Johansson and Natalie Portman in The Other Boleyn Girl which is out later this year.

But we were fast realising that the A-List celebrity status of these film sets was in many ways overshadowed by the actual history of the buildings themselves.

Haddon Hall is, quite simply, breathtaking inside and out. The glass in the windows is set at slight angles as a cunning Medieval way of avoiding having to clean the windows too often - from a distance the sun reflects on the glass to make it look sparkling clean. The interiors are in wonderful condition, and the gardens and views are worthy of a picnic, just make sure you don't forget to see the family chapel.

We walked round for several hours, and had begun planning a return trip with friends before we'd driven down the driveway to our next stop - Mr Darcy's house itself.

Chatsworth has been voted Britain's favourite stately home and in some ways this is both a blessing and a curse. It is beautiful - huge and as impressive as it looks on the big screen.

But it was so packed that we shuffled through in what felt like a conga line of visitors which meant it wasn't quite as enjoyable as Haddon - although we did get to see the sculpture gallery (complete with bust of Darcy) from the film and take a trip in a barouche (ok, a horse-drawn cart) through the grounds.

By the time we visited the last house on our itinerary, Hardwick Hall, both Lisa and I were already getting pangs about going home.

Just an hour and a half's drive from the Midlands, the views of the Derbyshire countryside, the amazing stately homes, great food and entertainment and the blissful relaxation of the hotel meant it felt like we'd had a week away.

Who knew Mr Darcy could get upstaged by his surroundings?

* Prices start at just £125 per person including two nights' bed and breakfast and entry to some of the stately homes mentioned. For full details and more information go to: www.visitpeakdistrict.com/shortbreaks


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