 ONCE upon a time a relaxed and cheerful place such as Bohemia would have served bistro classics such as coq au vin, boeuf-bourguignon and French onion soup. I half-hankered after those sort of unfussy, satisfying dishes as I sat with my wife and son in this small, funky place that is a cafe by day and restaurant by night. Then I realised that its short menu is today's equivalent of the fare that was on offer 30 and more years ago in restaurants whose tables had as their centre-piece a wax-encrusted wine bottle topped with a flickering candle. Rather than glancing fondly towards Left Bank Paris, Bohemia's kitchen seeks inspiration from further afield. It mixes Oriental and Mediterranean ingredients with those from closer to home. And it does it rather well. Don't head here expecting fine dining. It's hearty food prepared with care using good ingredients. Service was at times a bit slow, but it would be hard to become agitated in such a friendly, relaxed place. Bohemia endeared itself to me. Certainly I thoroughly enjoyed my starter - mild goat's cheese melted on top of crostini and served with a rich red onion marmalade and a good, fresh salad dressed perkily. Lynn's salmon and smoked haddock fishcakes, with a home-made tartar sauce and salad, were substantial things well received. The speed with which Ewan ate a large bowl of carrot and coriander soup, served with crusty bread, suggested he, too, was happy with his choice. The main course I ordered from the specials board mightn't have been to everyone's taste. But I'm made of less lily-livered stuff than those who would have been perturbed by the head that remained on the strawberry grouper I was served or by the many bones that lurked craftily and malevolently within its flesh. This was a chunky, tasty fish that was meaty, flaky and moist. It came on top of noodles spiked with ginger and plenty of chopped red chilli and just a touch too much sesame oil. Lynn's roast belly pork soon disappeared from the plate as did a warm apple, parsnip and squash "chutney" that was really more of a spiced vegetable stew. Ewan was pleased with good quality chicken stuffed with spinach and served with a well-balanced curried yoghurt dressing and coconut rice. All these dishes were generous in size and none of us had room for dessert so Lynn and I polished off the decent French shiraz we had chosen from a short but well priced wine list while Ewan drank the last of his cola. On the way out and after paying a reasonably pitched bill, I told Bohemia's young co-owner that I'd been reviewing for this newspaper. "I enjoyed it," I added. "Really? You're not just saying that?" he asked anxiously. Bless. Yes, really. HOW MUCH? £58 for three. VEGETARIANS? Choices. CHILD FRIENDLY? Yes. DISABLED ACCESS? Seemed fine. PARKING? P&D at rear. WHERE? Oak Tree Lane, Selly Oak. 0121 471 2713. | 
