WOE was me when I learned of the demise of Jessica's restaurant, a place where I'd enjoyed some of the most memorable food I've eaten in Birmingham. No need. For its closure means that Birmingham now has two superb places to eat. Jessica's' talented chef Glynn Purnell has, of course, opened his own gaff in the city centre. Meanwhile, the premises that used to house Jessica's is now run by Pascal Cluny, the French guy who was maitre'd there. And what a welcome addition it is to Birmingham's culinary scene. It's a place that serves relatively simple but interesting, good quality food in pleasant, stylish surroundings at prices that, while not cheap, aren't horrendous either. Pascal's chef is Jennifer Goff, whose cooking at a hotel in Warwickshire earned rave reviews. Understandably so. The gazpacho that came as a complimentary starter was beautiful stuff - the sweet and fruity soup given zip by a little chilli and depth by flaked crab meat. My following dish was another success. Plump scallops were cooked precisely - crisp and savoury on the outside, meltingly soft within. They came with wild mushrooms that added an almost meaty contrast. A tiny moan, though. I thought the Noilly Prat sauce that accompanied the dish was under-seasoned. My wife Lynn was delighted by a starter of citrus-marinated salmon which came with a herb blinis and a tiny mound of caviar. Our son Ewan was equally happy with discs of beetroot and goats cheese that came on delicate pastry and with balsamic vinegar and avocado oil that he greedily mopped up with bread. Main courses were to be just as successful. My succulent, flavoursome fillet of pork came wrapped in Parma ham with an excellent potato cake given earthy edge by sage. The wholegrain mustard jus alongside was well balanced and had plenty of depth. But, again, I thought the creamed leaks were under-seasoned. Lynn and Ewan both relished the chicken they ordered. The poultry came with rich, loose mashed potato, chunks of bacon, vividly green peas and broad beans and a rich buttery sauce. The creme brulee with which I finished my meal - given a nutty, slightly spiced edge by the flavour of tonka beans -was the real deal, the top thin and crisp and the custard beneath luxurious. Ewan found his coffee-flavoured dessert a little too adult for his 12-year-old palate, but it was a dessert that pleased my wife. The bill included plenty of drinks, alcoholic and soft. How much? £126 for three. Vegetarians? No problem. Child friendly? OK. Disabled access? Fine. Parking? On street. Go back? Certainly. Where? 1 Montague Road, Edgbaston. 0121 455 0999. | 
