AS REQUESTS go, it seemed straightforward - a glass of dry sherry and a tomato juice with plenty of Worcester sauce. But the furtive glances and anxious whispers at the bar suggested otherwise. Eventually, the waitress confessed that the restaurant had neither dry sherry nor Worcester sauce. Which, apart from signalling the end of civilisation as we know it, should have turned me against Turner's. But didn't. It's such a good-hearted place, with a pleasant buzz yet relaxed atmosphere, that the inadequately-stocked bar and rather slow service didn't particularly bother me. But what truly won me over was the very classy food. Its chef, Richard Turner, has worked at Raymond Blanc's stunning, influential Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons and, more recently, the Mailbox's aspirational but now closed Paris. The food that emerges from his latest kitchen speaks of a cook who is skilled in the classic French-English tradition, but aware of today's taste for a lighter, more inventive touch. Make no mistake: this is fine dining. Fine dining in a bistro setting, but fine dining nevertheless. And at a great price. I ate there with my wife and two friends and we left vowing to return. An amuse bouche of chilled potato and leek soup was rich and creamy, but had refreshing, vibrant flavours. Better was to come - in my case tortellini, the pasta blackened with squid ink, stuffed with scallops and crab. Pumpkin puree added an exotic, earthy note while a shot glass of crab foam brought oceanic depth. A pistou soup, chunky with Mediterranean vegetables, and ham hock terrine with toasted sourdough, a beetroot salad and sauce were also enjoyed. Two cuts of lamb featured on the plate that was served as my main course - a blushingly pink and succulent seared fillet and a disc of fibrous belly that had been slow cooked and was meltingly tender. Alongside lay a block of savoury dauphinnois potatoes and nearby a little mound of spinach. A lick of wild mushroom puree contrasted with the sweetness of the meat while a jus of outstanding depth brought the dish's elements together. Corn-fed duck breast came with a rich plum sauce, belly pork, zingy with Asian spices, came with prawns and ceps and a fillet of Devon plaice was perfectly cooked and impeccably fresh. Desserts proved a course beyond the appetites of either woman, but Steven and I strode manfully on. He to a chocolate confection that impressed him deeply. Me to a bowl of wonderfully sharp berry fruits served in a soothing vanilla-infused sauce and topped with a Pimms granita. Few desserts have thrilled me as much as this. Our bill also included bottled water, coffee and a decent southern French red wine. How much? £122. Vegetarians? Choices. Child friendly? Fine. Disabled access? OK. Parking? Nearby. Go back? Certainly. Where? Harborne High Street. Tel: 0121 426 4440. | 
